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解讀蘋果白蘭地apple brandy calvados*部分

從傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)土到20世紀(jì)為改變形象而做出的努力，法國(guó)蘋果白蘭地正在掙脫枷鎖，放眼未來(lái)。David Friesen撰文。

From its traditional terroir, through struggles to be taken seriously in the 20th century, French apple brandy calvados is now shaking off its stuffy shackles and looking to the future. By David Friesen.

Past / 過(guò)去

作為一個(gè)對(duì)香檳、波爾多葡萄酒和其他區(qū)域性產(chǎn)品有著嚴(yán)格規(guī)定的*，法國(guó)的蘋果白蘭地——卡爾瓦多斯——也和風(fēng)土密不可分。這主要是因?yàn)榭柾叨嗨沟漠a(chǎn)區(qū)諾曼底有著近乎完美的蘋果種植條件:豐富的粘土中含有燧石，可以有效鎖住水分，再加上溫和的冬季、溫暖的夏季與適度的風(fēng)和雨，營(yíng)造出了蘋果的快樂(lè)天堂?？嘀袔鸬奈鞔蛱O果（由不同品種的蘋果組成，每個(gè)釀酒商的西打蘋果都不一樣）被采摘下來(lái)，榨汁后發(fā)酵成干型西打，通常酒渣陳年至少六個(gè)月，然后再進(jìn)行蒸餾。根據(jù)西打的不同，用小型蒸餾塔或單罐將其蒸餾一次或兩次，蒸餾出來(lái)的就是生命之水，之后以橡木桶陳年。

Just as you might imagine from a country that has very specific regulations for champagne, bordeaux and other region-specific products, the French apple brandy calvados is tied to its terroir. Mostly this is because the region, Normandy, is almost perfect for apple growing. The rich clay soil, mixed with flint that allows excellent water reserves is balanced with Normandy’s mild winters, warm summers and a good balance of rain and wind to create a happy apple haven. The bittersweet cider apples – the blend of varieties vary from producer to producer – are harvested, pressed into juice and then fermented into dry cider, aged usually for at least six months on its lees before distillation begins. This is then turned into eau de vie, distilled in a small column or single pot still either once or twice depending on the type, and then aged in oak casks.

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數(shù)百年來(lái)，人們一直在種植各種各樣的蘋果并釀造西打——這一歷史甚至可以追溯到羅馬人占領(lǐng)時(shí)期。稱霸歐洲的查理大帝促進(jìn)了果樹(shù)栽培及其產(chǎn)量提高。這使得西打和葡萄酒在15世紀(jì)的法國(guó)酒飲市場(chǎng)上平分秋色，特別是在諾曼人征服了歐洲之后。新蘋果品種和釀造方法從西班牙傳入，西打生產(chǎn)迅速在諾曼底和布列塔尼流傳開(kāi)來(lái)，并在17世紀(jì)得到進(jìn)一步擴(kuò)張。但后來(lái)貪婪的法國(guó)貴族對(duì)蘋果白蘭地實(shí)施監(jiān)管、課以重稅，以維持他們的奢侈生活，其中尤以路易十四為最。在蘋果白蘭地最初的崛起之后，接踵而來(lái)的混亂持續(xù)了一個(gè)多世紀(jì)——直到法國(guó)大革命之后，蘋果白蘭地才被正式稱為“卡爾瓦多斯”。從那時(shí)起，它幾乎變成了工人階級(jí)的專屬酒飲:為了提神，他們?cè)诒镜鼐瓢珊燃恿颂O果白蘭地的咖啡，這就是所謂的“卡爾瓦咖啡”文化。連綿不斷的戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)也產(chǎn)生了不利影響:法國(guó)大革命、拿破侖、一戰(zhàn)再到二戰(zhàn)，法國(guó)蘋果白蘭地一直都是屬于軍隊(duì)和本地混混的酒。它變得工業(yè)化了，而不是手工化。不過(guò)，1940年代出現(xiàn)了改變的跡象。1942年，卡爾瓦多斯產(chǎn)區(qū)被正式授予法定產(chǎn)區(qū)稱號(hào)，奧日地區(qū)的獨(dú)特風(fēng)土和榮耀傳統(tǒng)得以重新發(fā)揚(yáng)光大。二戰(zhàn)后，酒廠紛紛重建，卡爾瓦多斯似乎也將要浴火重生——有如驕傲的“蘋果”鳳凰。

Apples of all types have been cultivated, and used to make cider, in the region as far back as the Roman occupation, continuing throughout the centuries. European badass Charlemagne was instrumental in creating the orchardist culture and ramping up production. This led to 15th century boozing in France being eual parts cider and wine, particularly once the Normans got hold of everything. New apple varietals and methods were introduced from Spain, with production continuing apace throughout Normandy and Brittany, expanding further in the 17th century. But then cider brandy was controlled and highly taxed by greedy French nobility, starting with Louis XIV, looking to maintain their lavish lifestyles. The period that followed cider brandy’s initial rise was a wilderness that lasted for well over a century – it was not until after the French Revolution that the term “calvados” was established for the spirit. From then on it became something of a working class tipple – the “cafe calva” culture, where apple brandy was consumed with coffee in local bars for a particularly peppy pick-me-up. Constant wars didn’t help – from Vive la Revolution, Napoleon and WW1 and up to WW2, French apple brandy was a low-grade, mass market product for troops and local troublemakers. It became industrial rather than artisan. A change was in the air by the 1940s though; in 1942 the first appellation controlee (AOC) regulations were finalised for the calvados region, to try and re-establish its proud terroir and traditional roots in the Pays d’Auge region. After WW2, distilleries were rebuilt, and calvados looked like it would rise from the ashes – a proud pingguo phoenix.

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